by Body positivity is a powerful movement that celebrates diverse body types, challenging traditional beauty standards and advocating for self-acceptance. Over the years, body positivity has made significant inroads into the fashion industry, which for much of its history has predominantly represented a narrow vision of beauty. Fashion, a reflection of society’s values and norms, has been both a tool for oppression and a platform for liberation. The journey of body positivity in fashion is marked by a complex interplay of social, cultural, and political shifts that have redefined beauty and self-acceptance. This retrospective look explores the history of body positivity in fashion, examining key moments, figures, and movements that have shaped how we understand and appreciate bodies in all their forms.
Early 20th Century: The Rise of the Thin Ideal
At the dawn of the 20th century, the fashion industry was largely dominated by the “flapper” ideal of slimness. This was partly influenced by the rise of Hollywood actresses such as Clara Bow, who epitomized the slender silhouette. The “Gibson Girl” of the early 1900s, with her narrow waist and tall, willowy frame, was the standard of beauty, though she still retained a bit more fullness in the hips compared to later eras.
In the early decades of the 20th century, women’s fashion was heavily influenced by the social and political changes of the time. The suffragette movement, which fought for women’s right to vote, was intertwined with the changing perceptions of women’s bodies. Women began to challenge the constraints of corsetry, opting for more comfortable and less restrictive clothing that allowed for greater freedom of movement. However, despite this shift in practicality, fashion still reinforced the idea of an idealized, unattainable body shape.
Throughout the 1920s, the popularity of slender, boyish figures was exacerbated by designers like Coco Chanel, whose designs favored simplicity and a silhouette that eliminated exaggerated curves. These fashion choices set the tone for decades to come, reinforcing the cultural notion that thinness equaled beauty.
1950s: The Hourglass Ideal and the Golden Age of Hollywood
In contrast to the androgynous style of the 1920s, the 1950s ushered in the return of a more feminine, hourglass shape. This era was heavily influenced by icons such as Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor, and Sophia Loren, whose curvy bodies became the new standard of beauty. However, while the hourglass ideal emphasized fuller busts and hips, it still required women to fit into a narrow frame that was largely unattainable for many.
Fashion trends during this time emphasized curves, with designers like Christian Dior and Jacques Fath introducing styles that accentuated the waist, hips, and bust, often using corsets or girdles to create the desired shape. The hourglass figure was glorified, but it still wasn’t reflective of the diversity of body types that existed. For women who did not fit this ideal, fashion still presented a narrow representation of beauty.
While the 1950s celebrated curves, it was still a time when the fashion industry largely overlooked the representation of larger bodies. Most high-fashion runways and magazines featured only models with slender, hourglass shapes, creating a culture that stigmatized bodies outside of these ideals.
1960s–1970s: The Rise of the Counterculture and the Birth of the Fat Acceptance Movement
In the 1960s and 1970s, significant cultural shifts began to challenge traditional norms of beauty. The counterculture movements, the rise of feminism, and the civil rights movement all played a role in challenging established beauty standards. During this time, women began to rebel against the restrictive and unrealistic ideals of the previous decades.
Twiggy’s stick-thin body became iconic, but it was also divisive. Her rise to fame highlighted how the fashion industry continued to favor a very specific body type: slim, youthful, and sometimes bordering on underweight. Her popularity marked a turning point, as the fashion world increasingly prioritized youth and slimness, leaving many women feeling alienated.
At the same time, the 1970s gave rise to the fat acceptance movement. Organizations like the National Association to Advance Fat Acceptance (NAAFA) were founded to combat the stigma and discrimination faced by larger bodies. This movement was integral in changing how society viewed fatness, and it created space for larger bodies to be seen in fashion and media. Fashion itself was slow to embrace these changes, but the fat acceptance movement laid the groundwork for future battles for body inclusivity in the fashion world.
1980s: Power Dressing and the Beginning of Inclusivity
The 1980s were marked by a return to more structured, formal styles, famously associated with power dressing. Women’s fashion during this time was heavily influenced by the feminist movement, as women were entering the workforce in greater numbers and striving for equality in traditionally male-dominated spaces. The notion of a “power suit” became a symbol of women’s empowerment, but it still adhered to narrow standards of body size. The ideal woman was tall, thin, and strong—again, a representation that did not include the full spectrum of body types.
However, the 1980s also saw the emergence of plus-size models, though they were not yet widely represented in mainstream fashion. Models like Emme, who became a notable plus-size model in the 1990s, paved the way for greater diversity in fashion representation. Though they were few and far between, their presence challenged the predominantly thin, European-centric beauty standards of the fashion industry.
1990s: The Supermodel Era and the Emergence of Diversity
The 1990s ushered in the era of supermodels, with figures like Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, and Kate Moss dominating the fashion world. While the supermodel era emphasized extreme thinness, it was also a time when racial and ethnic diversity began to be represented in more visible ways. Supermodels like Naomi Campbell and Tyra Banks broke racial barriers and expanded the definition of beauty in fashion.
Despite these advances, the 1990s also marked a time when the fashion industry embraced the “heroin chic” look, which glorified extreme thinness and contributed to widespread body dissatisfaction. This time period saw the resurgence of a preference for ultra-thin women, and it was a particularly difficult era for body-positive activists to gain traction. However, the visibility of more diverse supermodels, and the growing influence of the media in shaping beauty standards, sowed the seeds for change.
2000s: The Shift Toward Body Positivity and the Rise of “Real” Women
The early 2000s marked the beginning of a slow but significant shift in the conversation about body image in fashion. While the industry continued to emphasize slimness as the ideal, there was increasing dialogue around the concept of “real women,” a term used to describe women who did not conform to the traditional standards of beauty. This was the early precursor to the body positivity movement, which sought to challenge the narrow, commercialized definition of beauty that had dominated the fashion industry for decades.
In the 2000s, fashion brands and retailers began to recognize the economic power of larger women, and companies like Lane Bryant began marketing to a plus-size demographic. The increase in demand for plus-size clothing led to more visibility for larger bodies in the mainstream fashion industry.
The concept of body positivity, which had been gaining momentum in the 1990s through grassroots activism, found its voice more publicly in the 2000s. The movement sought to challenge body-shaming, reject the idea that beauty only existed in certain sizes, and promote the idea that all bodies deserve to be loved and celebrated.
2010s to Present: Mainstreaming Body Positivity and Shifting Fashion Norms
The 2010s were a breakthrough decade for body positivity in fashion, as the movement gained widespread attention. Models like Ashley Graham, who became one of the first plus-size models to appear on the cover of Sports Illustrated, challenged long-held assumptions about beauty in the fashion industry. Her success symbolized a broader shift toward inclusivity, as more brands began to feature models of varying sizes, skin tones, and gender identities in their advertising campaigns.
In addition, fashion weeks around the world began to embrace diversity, with designers including plus-size models in their runway shows. Designers like Christian Siriano, who made inclusivity a core value of his brand, were instrumental in helping to normalize body diversity in high-fashion spaces.
The proliferation of social media has played a crucial role in amplifying voices advocating for body positivity. Platforms like Instagram allowed individuals to share their own body-positive messages, challenge the unrealistic portrayals of bodies in mainstream media, and create online communities focused on body acceptance. Influencers and activists, many of whom are plus-size, have become some of the most influential figures in reshaping the fashion industry.
Today, fashion brands such as Savage X Fenty, Aerie, and Fenty Beauty continue to push for inclusivity by featuring a diverse range of models in their campaigns. The body-positive movement is not only about representation but also about promoting healthy attitudes toward body image, encouraging individuals to embrace their bodies and reject harmful beauty standards.
Conclusion: A Future of Inclusivity and Acceptance
The history of body positivity in fashion is a story of resilience, resistance, and transformation. From the early days of restrictive, narrow ideals of beauty to the present-day celebration of diverse body types, the fashion industry has undergone a significant shift. Although there is still work to be done, the progress made in recent years is undeniable. Fashion is no longer just for the thin or the conventionally beautiful; it is for everyone. As we look to the future, it is clear that the fashion industry will continue to evolve, with greater representation and inclusivity driving change. Body positivity is no longer just a movement; it is a cultural force that has permanently altered the way we see ourselves and each other in relation to fashion.
